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Only a short boat ride from the lively streets of Hvar Town lies a completely different world.
The Pakleni Islands (Pakleni Otoci) are a spectacular archipelago of small islands and islets scattered across the turquoise Adriatic Sea. Famous for hidden coves, crystal-clear water, fragrant pine forests and beautiful anchorages, they offer some of the best swimming and boating anywhere along the Croatian coast.
Despite their dramatic English nickname, the “Hell Islands,” there’s nothing infernal about them.
Quite the opposite.
The Pakleni Islands are all about slowing down: swimming in secluded bays, snorkelling in impossibly clear water, enjoying a long waterfront lunch and relaxing aboard your boat beneath the Mediterranean sun.
For many visitors, they become one of the highlights of their entire trip to Croatia.
If you’re planning to explore the Pakleni Islands from Split or Hvar, here’s everything you should know before you go.
The Pakleni Islands are located just off the southwest coast of Hvar Island, directly opposite Hvar Town.
The archipelago stretches for roughly 10 kilometres and consists of numerous islands, rocky islets, reefs, bays and hidden coves.
The largest island is Sveti Klement, home to some of the archipelago’s most famous destinations, including Palmižana and Vinogradišće Bay.
From Hvar Town, the nearest islands are only around 10–20 minutes away by boat.
From Split, the Pakleni Islands are usually visited as part of a full-day private boat tour combining them with destinations such as Hvar Town, Brač or other swimming locations along the route.
Their sheltered bays and countless anchorages make them particularly well suited to exploring by private boat.
The name creates one of the biggest misconceptions about the islands.
“Pakleni” sounds similar to the Croatian word associated with hell, which is why the archipelago is frequently translated into English as the Hell Islands.
But the origin of the name is believed to be much more practical.
It comes from paklina, a traditional pine resin once collected from the Aleppo pine trees growing across the islands.
For generations, this resin was used by local shipbuilders to protect and waterproof wooden boats.
So while “Hell Islands” makes a memorable nickname, the history of the name is actually closely connected to Dalmatia’s centuries-old maritime tradition.
There isn’t one single attraction that makes the Pakleni Islands worth visiting.
The islands themselves are the attraction.
Their coastline is filled with small coves, rocky beaches, protected bays and swimming spots that are difficult—or sometimes impossible—to reach without a boat.
And every bay feels slightly different.
Some are surrounded by thick Mediterranean pine forest.
Others feature smooth white rocks disappearing into deep blue water.
Some have lively beach bars and restaurants, while others are completely peaceful, with little more than the sound of cicadas and the sea.
The rocky seabed and limited development also help create exceptionally clear water.
On calm days, you can often see straight through the water to the seabed beneath your boat.
It’s exactly the kind of scenery most people imagine when they picture summer in Croatia.
There are dozens of beautiful bays and anchorages scattered throughout the archipelago, but a few locations are particularly worth knowing.
Palmižana is the best-known destination in the Pakleni Islands and one of the most famous boating stops near Hvar.
Located on Sveti Klement, Palmižana is surrounded by pine trees, Mediterranean vegetation and beautiful gardens.
Rather than feeling like a traditional island village, it has the atmosphere of a relaxed Mediterranean retreat.
The area is particularly well known for its waterfront restaurants, where visitors can enjoy fresh seafood, local wine and traditional Dalmatian dishes just metres from the sea.
Luxury yachts fill the nearby marina during summer, but walk away from the waterfront and you’ll quickly find quieter paths surrounded by nature.
Palmižana is an excellent choice if you want to combine swimming with a long island lunch.
On the opposite side of Sveti Klement from the Palmižana marina lies Vinogradišće Bay.
This beautiful bay is known for its turquoise water, pine-covered surroundings and lively summer atmosphere.
The water here is particularly inviting, making it an excellent place to swim before heading ashore for lunch or drinks.
Restaurants and beach bars are scattered around the bay, creating a more social atmosphere than many of the archipelago’s quieter swimming spots.
During peak summer it can become busy, but there’s a good reason for its popularity.
It’s one of those places where the combination of clear water, boats, pine trees and relaxed island life feels unmistakably Croatian.
Jerolim is one of the closest islands to Hvar Town.
Its location makes it easy to reach, but it still feels remarkably different from the busy harbour and streets of Hvar.
The island is known for rocky beaches, pine trees and exceptionally clear water.
Jerolim also has a long tradition of naturist-friendly beaches, so visitors should be aware that some areas are popular with naturists.
For those looking for a simple swimming stop close to Hvar, it can be an excellent option.
For travellers looking for something quieter, Mlini Bay is one of the most beautiful swimming areas close to Hvar.
The bay is surrounded by Mediterranean vegetation and offers clear, sheltered water ideal for swimming and snorkelling.
Compared with some of the better-known locations around Palmižana, Mlini often feels more relaxed.
It’s the kind of place where you can drop anchor, jump directly into the Adriatic and suddenly realise an hour has passed.
The famous locations are worth seeing, but some of the best moments in the Pakleni Islands happen away from the names you’ll find in travel guides.
There are countless smaller coves scattered around the archipelago.
Which one is best can change from day to day.
Wind direction, waves, boat traffic and the time of day all influence where the water will be calmest and where you’ll find the most peaceful anchorage.
This is where having an experienced local captain makes a difference.
Instead of following exactly the same route every day, a good skipper can choose a swimming spot according to the conditions.
Sometimes the best bay is simply the one where nobody else has arrived yet.
If there’s one thing you should definitely do in the Pakleni Islands, it’s get into the water.
The rocky coastline and clear Adriatic Sea create excellent conditions for swimming and snorkelling.
Around the quieter coves, you can explore underwater rock formations, watch small fish around the seabed and swim between rocky sections of coastline.
But you don’t necessarily need to spend the entire time exploring.
Sometimes the best plan is much simpler:
Drop anchor.
Jump into the water.
Swim for as long as you like.
Climb back aboard.
Relax in the sun.
Repeat.
That simplicity is a big part of what makes the Pakleni Islands special.
One of the great things about the Pakleni Islands is that you can experience two completely different sides of the Adriatic in the same afternoon.
One moment, you can be anchored in a peaceful cove with almost nobody around.
A short boat ride later, you can be enjoying lunch or cocktails at a stylish waterfront restaurant.
Around Palmižana and Vinogradišće, you’ll find some of the archipelago’s best-known restaurants and beach venues.
Fresh fish, seafood, grilled vegetables, local olive oil and Croatian wine are all part of the experience.
Rather than rushing through lunch, allow yourself time to enjoy it.
A long meal beside the sea followed by an afternoon swim is one of the best ways to experience island life in Dalmatia.
The Pakleni Islands are beautiful throughout the main boating season, generally from May to October.
Peaceful and uncrowded, although the sea can still feel cool for longer swimming sessions.
One of our favourite times to visit. The weather is warm, the sea is becoming comfortable and the islands are lively without reaching peak-season crowds.
Expect the warmest sea temperatures and liveliest atmosphere.
Restaurants, beach bars and anchorages are at their busiest, particularly around Palmižana.
If you’re visiting during these months, having a private boat gives you the advantage of being able to move away from the busiest areas.
Another fantastic month.
The sea remains warm from the summer, temperatures are usually comfortable and crowds begin to decrease.
For visitors primarily interested in swimming, boating and relaxing, June and September can be particularly rewarding.
This is one place where we recommend not rushing.
Technically, you can stop in the Pakleni Islands for an hour, swim and continue somewhere else.
But you’ll miss much of what makes them special.
Ideally, allow several hours.
That gives you enough time to find a beautiful anchorage, swim and snorkel, relax aboard the boat and perhaps stop for lunch or drinks.
The Pakleni Islands are not about checking attractions off a list.
They’re about enjoying where you are.
A boat is easily the best way to experience the archipelago.
Water taxis can take you to several popular destinations from Hvar, but a private boat gives you the freedom to explore quieter coves and move between locations throughout the day.
If one bay is busy, you simply find another.
If you want more flexibility and time on the water, you can also explore private boat tours in Split and choose an itinerary that includes Hvar and the Pakleni Islands.
With clear water and rocky underwater landscapes, this is one of the best places around Hvar to spend time snorkelling.
Even a simple mask can completely change the experience.
Popular waterfront restaurants can become extremely busy during July and August.
If you have somewhere specific in mind, booking ahead is recommended.
Your captain or crew may also be able to recommend somewhere based on what you’re looking for—fresh seafood, traditional Dalmatian cuisine, a romantic setting or a livelier atmosphere.
There are too many.
And that’s the point.
Rather than racing from Palmižana to Jerolim to Mlini and constantly checking the time, choose a few good locations and actually enjoy them.
One beautiful bay where you spend two hours swimming and relaxing can be far more memorable than five rushed stops.
A bay that was perfect yesterday might be less comfortable today because of wind or boat traffic.
Local captains know which side of the islands will offer better protection depending on the conditions.
Sometimes changing the itinerary slightly leads to an even better experience.
Dolphins live throughout the Adriatic and are occasionally spotted around Hvar and the surrounding islands.
Sightings are never guaranteed, but if you’re lucky enough to encounter them, give them space and enjoy the moment.
You don’t need to stay in Hvar to experience the Pakleni Islands.
They make an excellent destination for a full-day private boat tour from Split.
A typical day can combine the islands with Hvar Town, allowing you to experience both sides of Hvar in one trip.
You might spend the morning cruising toward the island, explore Hvar’s historic centre, stop for lunch and then escape into the Pakleni Islands for an afternoon of swimming and relaxing.
Or you can do the opposite.
That flexibility is one of the biggest advantages of travelling by private boat.
A relaxed private boat itinerary from Split could look something like this:
Morning — Departure from Split
Cruise across the Adriatic toward Hvar.
Late Morning — Hvar Town
Walk through the historic centre, explore the waterfront, enjoy coffee or climb toward Fortica for spectacular views over the Pakleni Islands.
Midday — Pakleni Islands
Leave the busy town behind and cruise into the archipelago.
Lunch — Palmižana or Vinogradišće
Enjoy a relaxed waterfront lunch surrounded by pine trees and the Adriatic.
Afternoon — Hidden Swimming Cove
Let your captain find a beautiful anchorage away from the busiest areas. Swim, snorkel and relax aboard the boat.
Late Afternoon — Cruise Back to Split
Enjoy the scenery and open sea on the journey home.
The exact schedule doesn’t need to be fixed.
That’s part of the experience.
The Pakleni Islands work particularly well for:
Couples looking for beautiful swimming spots and a romantic island lunch.
Families wanting calm water, swimming and a relaxed day at sea.
Groups of friends who want to combine Hvar, swimming, restaurants and beach bars.
Luxury travellers looking for private anchorages, excellent restaurants and freedom to explore at their own pace.
Repeat visitors to Croatia who want to move beyond the busiest tourist attractions and experience more of the Adriatic from the water.
The Pakleni Islands offer almost everything people imagine when they dream about summer in Croatia.
Crystal-clear water.
Hidden coves.
Pine-covered islands.
Waterfront restaurants.
Quiet anchorages.
Warm Mediterranean sunshine.
But unlike destinations built around one famous monument or attraction, there isn’t one specific thing you’re supposed to see here.
The experience is the destination.
It’s jumping from the boat into turquoise water.
It’s finding a quiet bay with nobody else around.
It’s sitting down for fresh fish and local wine beside the sea.
It’s drying in the sun on the deck while Hvar sits on the horizon.
And it’s having absolutely no reason to rush anywhere.
Just beyond the energy and glamour of Hvar Town lies another side of the island.
A quieter one.
The Pakleni Islands capture much of what makes the Adriatic so special: clear water, untouched nature, hidden bays, excellent food and long summer days spent on the sea.
You can certainly visit the famous beaches and restaurants—and you should.
But don’t be afraid to leave some of the day unplanned.
Let your captain find a quiet bay.
Jump into the water.
Stay longer than expected.
Have lunch when you get hungry.
And enjoy the fact that, for a few hours, there really isn’t anywhere else you need to be.
That’s the real Pakleni Islands experience.
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